What is the best way to travel around the Cabot Trail? Clockwise or counterclockwise?

No matter which direction you experience the Cabot Trail, there are plenty of dining, shopping and cultural hidden gems along the way.SUPPLIED

This question has been asked countless times and depending on who you ask, there are countless answers.

The truth is: both ways are amazing!

But that answer doesn’t really help someone who is looking for hidden gems, photo spots, top hiking trails, places to eat and more while planning their trip around the Cabot Trail.

So, we asked Nova Scotians to share their top recommendations for travellers looking to experience the best of Cape Breton Island’s famous Cabot Trail. Read on, then start planning.

Clockwise versus counterclockwise, according to locals:

" “I prefer counterclockwise unless you are driving in a larger vehicle such as in RV or towing a camper/fifth wheel as clockwise makes the climbs easier. Also, driving counterclockwise can be a bit daunting for those who are scared of heights, but perhaps easier on the driver if they are the one who doesn’t like the heights!”

" “Honestly, I really don’t think there is a wrong way to travel the Cabot Trail. I love driving clockwise for the beautiful views – some of my favourites are between Margaree and the National Park entrance just past Chéticamp. The views from a few look-offs – especially the pull-off with the view that overlooks Pleasant Bay – are breathtaking! I love driving down Cape Smokey too. Hang on tight, take your time and enjoy the ride.”

" “Both ways provide great scenery and a number of spots to pull over and enjoy walking/hiking trails, views from the look-offs and the numerous coastal villages along the route. The direction the traveller takes around the Cabot Trail may depend on what they plan to see prior to their trip, such as experiencing the Acadian charm and culture of Chéticamp or the Scottish roots and traditions in Cape Breton which would lead to a visit at the St. Ann’s Gaelic College near Baddeck.”

" “You can also start or finish the Cabot Trail via the Ceilidh Trail (Route 19) from the Canso Causeway at the entrance to Cape Breton Island. This way, you will follow the coastline all the way to/from Margaree Forks (where Route 19 meets the Cabot Trail), passing through some picture perfect communities like Port Hood, Mabou and Inverness with attractions such as Cabot Links and Cabot Cliffs golf courses, Glenora Distillery, The Red Shoe Pub, Celtic Music Interpretive Centre, beautiful beaches and sunsets over the ocean.”

" “I prefer to drive the Cabot Trail clockwise as I like the view. Some may prefer this direction because it gives the feeling that you are hugging the mountains more, possibly making it a bit less intimidating.”

" “I prefer to travel counterclockwise because it gives passengers a thrilling ride. As the driver, I love going up and down Cape Smokey Mountain near Ingonish!”

" “Counterclockwise. I love driving up Cape Smokey and seeing the view overlooking Ingonish on the way down the other side, and I love the views as you come around the west side of Cape Breton as you get closer to Chéticamp. You also have easy access to most pull-offs/look-offs in Cape Breton Highlands National Park by going counterclockwise as many are to your right, between the road and ocean.”

" “Whichever direction you decide to drive, I will always recommend that you drive along the coast in Cape Breton getting to/from the Cabot Trail as much as possible. This could include driving along the Bras d’Or Lake to get to Baddeck for a clockwise or counterclockwise Cabot Trail adventure or – my favourite – taking Route 19 (Ceilidh Trail) all the way up the west coast to enter the Cabot Trail in Margaree Forks for a clockwise trip. Oh – and I love taking the Englishtown Ferry for the views of the mountains, too!”

❮ ❯

Tips for experiencing the Cabot Trail:

Where should I start my Cabot Trail drive?

Depending on where you are arriving from – mainland Nova Scotia or elsewhere on Cape Breton Island – and if you plan to go clockwise or counterclockwise, you have a number of options of where you can hop on the Cabot Trail. Here are four most commonly used entrances to access the Cabot Trail:

Travelling clockwise:

Take the Ceilidh Trail (Route 19) from Port Hastings as you enter Cape Breton Island to meet the Cabot Trail in Margaree Forks.

Drive along Hwy 105 to hop on the Cabot Trail at Exit 7 in Nyanza, near Baddeck.

Travelling counterclockwise:

Jump on the Cabot Trail at Highway 105, Exit 11 in St. Ann’s Bay.

Turn off Highway 105 at Exit 12 in Englishtown to take the Englishtown Ferry, a short cable ferry ride across the channel to Jersey Cove that connects St. Ann’s Bay and St. Ann’s Harbour. There is no fee/toll to take the ferry.

Be sure to watch for signage near Exit 11 (if travelling from the Baddeck direction) or before Exit 12 (if travelling from the Sydney/Kelly’s Mountain direction). That will indicate if the ferry is operating, since weather and regular maintenance can interrupt this daily, year-round ferry service.

Enjoy lunch at The Chowder House in Neil’s Harbour for good food and great views.SUPPLIED

Where should I stop for attractions, places to eat, shopping and activities as a first-timer driving around the Cabot Trail?

There is a lot to see and do throughout the Cabot Trail, including many hidden gems. Here are some of the top recommendations from local Nova Scotians:

St. Ann’s Gaelic College / Great Hall of the Clans. This beautiful property and gift shop offers great demonstrations by staff and faculty members including milling frolics, kilt-making, music and dancing over lunch!
Whale Interpretive Centre in Pleasant Bay. Learn about the ecosystems in the area before a whale watching tour.

Take in ocean views on a thrilling gondola ride at Cape Smokey.SUPPLIED

A visit to Ingonish would not be complete without a ride up the first gondola in eastern Canada at Cape Smokey.
Take in the beautiful views at Hideaway Campground & Oyster Market in South Harbour and be sure to order their fresh Aspy Bay oysters at their onsite Oyster Bar.
Black Brook Beach near Ingonish for a refreshing jump in the waves, a waterfall and a short hiking trail.
Kingross Quilts and Fibre Arts in Margaree Valley for works of art in quilting and hooked rugs.
Leather Works by Jolene in Indian Brook on Cape Breton Island’s Cabot Trail for wonderful handmade leather products.
Big Spruce Brewing in Nyanza for a locally brewed beer.
Ingonish Beach is a beautiful beach with some awesome waves, plus a stay at the Keltic Lodge at the Highlands. North Bay Beach is also close by with calmer waves on this quiet sandy beach.
The Chowder House in Neil’s Harbour and the Rusty Anchor Restaurant in Pleasant Bay offers good food and great views.
Le Gabriel Restaurant & Lounge in Chéticamp. Excellent seafood and great location for large groups.
L’Abri Restaurant & Bar in Chéticamp offers elevated food and cocktails in a thoughtfully designed environment complete with stunning ocean views.
Visiting Chéticamp and stopping in at Les Trois Pignons to learn about the French Acadian heritage and to try your hand at rug hooking is a must. Be sure to stop at Flora’s Gift Shop, the ultimate one-stop shop.
Looking for a great spot to stop to eat along the Cabot Trail? The Dancing Goat Cafe & Bakery in Margaree Valley serves up sandwiches made on their fresh bread plus a daily assortment of baked goods and more. Be sure to try their homemade porridge bread if you are lucky enough to get a loaf before they sell out for the day.
The picnic park at Lake O’Law Provincial Park in Margaree – it’s a great place for a lake swim on a warm summer day. There are plenty of places to stop for photo ops, but you won’t want to skip taking a few snaps at the top of French Mountain and North Mountain after you’ve climbed them by bike.

Take the White Glove Tour at Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site to see and hold some of Bell’s inventions and belongings.SUPPLIED

Stop in Baddeck to visit the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site and stay at one of the resorts, inns, B&Bs or cottages nearby. Be sure to take the White Glove Tour at the museum so you can see – and even hold – some of Bell’s inventions and personal belongings. The building and grounds are fully wheelchair accessible too. Walk along the Baddeck Waterfront to take in the view that Bell and his wife Mabel loved enough to build a home here. You will even see a statue of them in their favourite spot along the waterfront.
Uisge Bàn Falls Provincial Park, located minutes from Baddeck is a 3.5 kilometre trail with a 50-foot waterfall in a gorge. Great for nature lovers!
Stop in Grand Étang to visit the Centre de la Mi-Carême then off to Chéticamp to stop at The Doryman Pub & Grill for food and Acadian music.
Go hiking in Meat Cove for the amazing views and you can even camp in the cliffside campground that overlooks the Atlantic Ocean!
Stop in Ingonish and eat at Coastal Restaurant & Pub.
For golfers, Cape Breton Highlands Links, next to Keltic Lodge at the Highlands, is a must.

Take a sunset hike or walk along the Skyline Trail in Cape Breton Highlands Provincial Park.SUPPLIED

Hike or walk the Skyline Trail (a level, wide trail that is stroller and wheelchair friendly) in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. During the summer months, park staff offer guided Sunset Hikes so don’t miss out! For a more challenging hike, check out Franey Trail.
In Chéticamp, stop for butter tarts and cinnamon buns at La Boulangerie Aucoin Bakery and for coffee and local art. Then head to Freya & Thor Gallery and Café for wonderful, whimsical, one-of-a-kind carvings, paintings, hooked rugs and more from more than 100 local and Maritime artists, including works and giftware by several Cape Breton artists.
Go whale watching in Cape Breton. The stunning natural beauty of northern Cape Breton Island from the water will literally take your breath away, and the whales and dolphins are pretty amazing, too. You may even spot sea turtles, sunfish, Atlantic puffins and other sea life.
Go ziplining in South Harbour with Mountain Pine Adventures where you will zip over sections of South Harbour.
If you like scenic detours, you’ll want to drive the coastal route between South Harbour and Neil’s Harbour where you’ll discover the tiny fishing community of White Point. In the summertime, be sure to stop for a meal at The Chowder Hut in Neil’s Harbour and visit the lighthouse for ice cream.
Drive through the small village of Dingwall to the Markland Coastal Beach Cottages property to take in the million-dollar view of the Cape Breton Highlands mountain range overlooking the long, sandy beach that separates the ocean and bay in the Aspy Bay Fault area.
Check out all 26 look-offs situated along the Cabot Trail within Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Each look-off offers something different, from the view to the opportunity to learn about the area from Parks Canada staff.
Take the exit at Cape North to visit Cabot’s Landing Provincial Park, the site where Italian explorer John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto) is believed to have first landed on Cape Breton Island. Then continue to the villages of Bay St. Lawrence, where you can go on a whale watching boat tour.
Visit artists’ and artisans’ open studios and artisan shops and galleries all along the Cabot Trail to view the amazing works inspired by the natural beauty of Cape Breton. From pottery, woodwork and silversmith-made jewelry to handmade quilts, hooked rugs, paintings, prints, and so much more, you’re sure to find the perfect souvenir that beautifully captures your Cabot Trail experience.

Advertising feature provided by Tourism Nova Scotia. The Globe and Mail’s editorial department was not involved.

Latest in

More

Interact with The Globe