A new exhibition examines fashion's most iconic design objects, and as Caitlin Agnew notes, allows visitors to shop the show
At the MoMA in New York, a new exhibition titled Items: Is Fashion Modern? explores 111 pieces of clothing and accessories that have had an impact on 20th and 21st century life. Unlike a traditional fashion museum retrospective, which examines the trajectory of a particular designer's career and influence, this grouping is driven by the status of the objects and considers the relationship between fashion and functionality, culture, aesthetics, politics, labour, identity, economy and technology.
On display until January 2018, Items is the MoMA's first fashion-focused exhibition since 1944. It showcases wardrobe building blocks such as Levi's 501s, the little black dress and the white T-shirt, fashion-forward styles like the mini skirt, platform shoe and moon boot and pieces with shifting political meanings, like the hijab, keffiyeh and lapel pin. Canada's primary design contribution to the collection is the yoga pant, via a pair of 1998 Boogie pants by Vancouver's Lululemon, as well as the Team Canada 1976 women's suit to illustrate the contribution of Australian swimwear company Speedo.
"This is really more looking at fashion as an expression of design," says Emmanuel Plat, MoMA's director of merchandising. "The lens for this exhibition is really looking at objects that changed the world and are so iconic that they became objects of design rather than simply garments."
To accompany the exhibition, the MoMA Design Store has commissioned a product suite featuring a selection of limited-edition items. There's a run of 1,000 of the original 1937 style Ray-Ban aviator sunglasses that come with a MoMA logo printed on the temple tip, as well as a grey Champion hoodie with "MoMA" appliquéd across the front in collegiate lettering.
A favourite of Plat's is the striped Breton shirt, or marinière, made by Armor-Lux, a French company that has been producing the nautical classic since 1938, the original of which has 21 stripes to represent the 21 victories of Napleon. "In this case it's interesting because there's not one company that claims to be the one that has originated it," he says.
To create the selection of merchandise, Plat worked closely with the museum's curators to uphold the integrity of the show. "Our presence next to the exhibition is very discrete," he says. "It could have been very tempting, but also probably not too elegant, to just go for the easy route and create a shop of as many objects as you see in this show." And anything in the exhibition that's not available to buy at the MoMA, like a Cartier Love bracelet or a bottle of Chanel No 5, can likely be acquired just a few blocks away on Fifth Avenue.
THIS WEEK'S STYLE HAPPENINGS
- Until January 30, 2018, Holt Renfrew is partnering with Bandier to launch an activewear shop-in-shop at its Bloor Street location in Toronto. With five U.S. boutiques and a global e-commerce store, Bandier carries over 50 brands with a wellness slant. At Holt Renfrew, Bandier will be offering activewear, footwear, accessories and gifts as well as fitness and wellness programming. For more information, visit www.holtrenfrew.com.
- Nordstrom is welcoming direct-to-consumer brand Everlane to its Pop-In@Nordstrom spaces at the downtown Vancouver and Toronto locations. Until Nov. 12, shop some of Everlane’s best-selling pieces – including their 100% Human Collection that contributes $5 from every purchase to the ACLU – in store at CF Pacific Centre, CF Eaton Centre and online. For more information, visit www.nordstrom.com/pop.
- French skincare brand L’Occitane has tapped American stationery company Rifle Paper Co. to create a limited-edition collection. The Hand Cream Trio and Pure Shea Trio both feature custom artwork by creative director and illustrator Anna Bond. The lines is available throughout October in stores and online. For more information, visit ca.loccitane.com.