When British actor Eddie Redmayne showed up for the premiere of The Theory of Everything at the Toronto International Film Festival this September, he set flashbulbs and social media ablaze in a wide-lapel, double-breasted, teal-green suit. The look was from designer Christopher Bailey’s spring 2015 collection for Burberry Prorsum, one the designer says was inspired by “adventure.” Although Bailey was referring to the late writer Bruce Chatwin’s dreamy, nomadic travel books, he could easily have been referring to a changing perception in the way men dress as well.
Just six months earlier, singer Pharrell Williams had stepped onto the Oscars red carpet wearing a custom Lanvin tuxedo with narrow, cuffed black shorts. The man who spawned countless Internet memes with his oversized Vivienne Westwood hat had seemingly done it again.
After years of paring down their wardrobes in favour of simple “basics,” guys are rediscovering their individuality, led by a crop of Hollywood leading men whose influence is crossing over from film to fashion.
“There’s a natural progression in men’s dressing, which is a reflection of the times people live in,” says Jonathan Cheung, head of global men’s design for Levi’s. “More information and more choice means that there are multiple trends going on at the same time. You can be modern, heritage, dressed up and dressed down all at once.”
With so many options to explore, the idea is to look less like an eccentric Johnny Depp and more like Ryan Gosling, a laid-back clotheshorse who’s known for pulling off traditionally formal looks during the day. This, in practical terms, might include pairing suit trousers with a polo shirt for the office, then throwing the jacket back on when heading out to dinner. It could also involve swapping out sneakers for a pair of boots that are dressy enough to wear to a wedding, yet won’t get destroyed if the wearer kicks up some dirt in them.
In another interesting turnabout, today’s dapperest gents are also taking a lesson or two from the ladies and upgrading their accessories, the male version of the statement handbag encompassing everything from a vintage square-dial watch to a chunky silver ring. Those who aren’t into jewellery might consider adding a pocket square or patterned scarf to jazz up ensembles.
“When I think of celebrities who are taking it up a notch and taking risks with their style, I think of musicians like A$AP Rocky and Pharrell,” says Cat Wright, an L.A.-based stylist who works with the band MAGIC! and E! News host Terrence Jenkins. “They’re doing the classic thing and adding a little kick, whether it’s swapping a white dress shirt for a denim one or wearing a necklace instead of a tie.”
Another easy upgrade, according to Cheung: “Socks. You can have a bit of fun there.”
While nuanced variations on the classics seem to be the direction for now, that could evolve into something even more forward: Just last month, designer J.W. Anderson showed a cable-knit crop top with his spring 2015 men’s-wear collection during London Fashion Week. The Danish designer Astrid Andersen had toyed with the trend a few seasons earlier, when she sent hulking, athletic models down the runway in stomach-baring mesh and spandex outfits. Observers immediately questioned the wearability of the look, wondering if some trends are better left on the runway.
In the end, though, perhaps designers are just like us, taking their style cues from celebrities. After all, rapper Kid Cudi stole the show at Coachella this year when he took the stage in front of 100,000 feverish fans in cut-off jeans and, amazingly, a bright-red crop top.
Suddenly, #PharrellsHat seems so nine months ago.
No match
The newest way to rock a suit is to mix up jackets and trousers, contrasting textures and prints. Sticking to a similar colour scheme (navy with pale blue, black with grey) ensures that the over-all look is still sleek. Bonus points for wearing a spotted tie with plaid pants.
From left: Z Zegna jacket (part of a suit), $1,395, Dolce & Gabbana tie, $275 at Harry Rosen (www.harryrosen.com). Hugo Boss shirt, $225 through www.hugoboss.com. Ovadia & Sons pants, $325 through www.mrporter.com. G.H. Bass & Co. shoes, $140 at Hudson’s Bay (www.thebay.com). Paul Smith jacket, $1,190 through www.mrporter.com. The Kooples shirt, $215 at Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfrew.com). Brunello Cucinelli pants, $995 at Harry Rosen. Tie, $79.50 at Club Monaco (www.clubmonaco.com). Grenson Boots, $455 at Uncle Otis (www.uncleotis.com). On the coat rack, from left: Ted Baker London grey coat, $685, plaid coat, $748 at Ted Baker London (www.tedbaker-london.com). MSGM duffel coat, $750 at Holt Renfrew.
Fancy pants
Paisley patterned trousers? Why not? Printed trousers might seem outrageous now, but so did brightly coloured jeans several years ago. Keeping things simple up top (pairing a crewneck sweater with a chocolate-brown leather jacket, say) will balance out any excess.
Danier jacket, $599 at Danier (www.danier.com). Oliver Spencer shirt, $175 at Oliver Spencer Toronto and through www.oliverspencer.com. AMI Paris sweater, $395 at Hudson’s Bay. Club Monaco pants, $119.50 at Club Monaco. Louis Vuitton boots, $960 at select Louis Vuitton boutiques and through www.louisvuitton.com.
College try
For those whose campus days have long since passed, collegiate style means old-school Oxford charm that’s polished enough for the office. Classic elbow-patch blazers and cuffed trousers lose their stodginess when worn in a combination of fabrics – silk and wool, tweed and cashmere – and are paired with modern pieces such as a boldly printed sweater.
From left: Ovadia & Sons jacket, $1,420 through www.mrporter.com. St. Laurent Paris shirt, $690 at Holt Renfrew. Scotch & Soda sweater, $159 at Hudson’s Bay. Oliver Spencer pants, $325, Universal Works scarf, $75 at Oliver Spencer Toronto and through www.oliverspencer.com. Prada boots, price on request through www.prada.com. Junya Watanabe jacket, $1,335 at Holt Renfrew. Prada shirt, $880 through www.prada.com. J.W. Anderson sweater, $605 through www.mrporter.com. J.Crew pants, $225 at J.Crew (www.jcrew.com). Burberry Prorsum shoes, $800 through www.ca.burberry.com.
A fresh coat
More elegant than a peacoat and warmer than a trench, a three-quarter-length car coat is the ultimate fall topper. Done in a tweed check, it makes a statement mixed with other patterns, while a playful scarf adds pinache to a monotone palette.
From left: St. Laurent Paris coat, $4,150 at Holt Renfrew. Louis Vuitton shirt, $920 through www.louisvuitton.com. YMC sweater, $220 at Uncle Otis. Hugo Boss pants, $185 through www.hugoboss.com. Prada shoes, price on request through www.prada.com. Oliver Spencer coat, $735 through www.oliverspencer.com. Club Monaco shirt, $159.50 at Club Monaco. Ted Baker London sweater, $195 at Ted Baker London. Hugo Boss pants, $325 through www.hugoboss.com. Chelsey by Joseph scarf, $125 at Harry Rosen. Burberry Prorsum Shoes, $800 through www.ca.burberry.com.
No tie required
Turtlenecks are a major fall trend, cropping up in collections by Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs and Pringle of Scotland. New takes on cocktail-hour dressing include ditching the necktie in favour of a fine-guage turtleneck under a loudly patterned button-up.
3.1 Philip Lim jacket, $825, Theory pants, $260 at Hudson’s Bay. Gucci cashmere sweater, $880 through www.mrporter.com. Burberry Prorsum shirt, $650 through www.ca.burberry.com. Paul Smith shoes, $495 at Davids (www.davidsfootwear.com). Socks, stylist’s own.
From left: Cantarelli jacket, $1,295 at Harry Rosen. Burberry Prorsum Shirt, $650 through www.ca.burberry.com. The Kooples sweater, $270 at Holt Renfrew. Club Monaco jacket, $575 at Club Monaco. Marc by Marc Jacobs shirt, $198 at Hudson’s Bay. Hugo Boss Cardigan, $225 through www.hugoboss.com.
Styling by Alon Freeman/judyinc.com. Grooming by Taylor Savage for TRESemmé Hair Care & MAC Cosmetics/judyinc.com. Shot on location at The Oxley in Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood.