Philip Sparks Fall 2011 collectionJenna Marie Wakani
This winter, after a particularly epic snowfall, I tried to rally my friends into an afternoon of tobogganing. The attempt proved futile thanks to the cutting cold - and because only one intrepid pal actually showed up.
There's no doubt that if Philip Sparks had played the same game, the outcome would have been much more successful. For one, he managed to pack the sixth floor of the Burroughes building to its hilt in celebration of the winter pursuits that inspired his fall 2011 collection.
The runway was scattered with vintage toboggans, skates and snowshoes, which rosy-cheeked models seemed poised to strap on and take to the powder instead of running to the hearth. Melton wool coats with rounded raglan shoulders and toggles alongside hearty hand-knit fisherman sweaters with necklines wide enough to spot the triple-ply plaid shirting underneath ensured that guys kept cozy while looking cool. Despite building on the bulk, Sparks' masterful tailoring kept his signature slim cuts in check.
The looks, for both men and women, were layered with lush mountain sheep collars and an oversized printed scarf inspired by the geometric pattern found in Ontario blankets. Both were ideal for wrapping yourself up in for that ice fishing expedition you should get to planning.
Even the formal suiting gave a nod to nostalgic Canadiana: a large windowpane check wool jacket and dress trousers were paired with a plaid cotton tuxedo shirt to great effect, although thoroughly inappropriate for snow shoeing.
Sparks' women's line, now in its second season, continues to develop with a nod to the boys. He begins by designing the men's wear first and pulling out those natural tomboy elements - such as skinny shirting and knits - before adding feminine flourish. Melton and toggles resurfaced on the ladies, but he added maple in the form of an abstract leaf photo print atop a cotton sateen blouse, dress and - beautifully - a skirt. An ice skating dress made an appearance, too, pin-tucked and pleated in wool and cashmere tweed.
Sparks never strays too far toward Canadian kitch factor - he merely references it to idyllic, daydreamy effect. Makes you wish, for much more than a second, that the romantic notion of hitting the slopes with hot chocolate in hand would appeal a little bit more to your friends.
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