To really make a mark in fashion today – to get heads turning, people talking, and the world’s top celebrities clamouring to sport your wares – a designer has to be unapologetic about his or her vision. And that’s precisely Lynn Ban’s approach. The Singapore-born, New York-based jewellery designer has become the go-to brand for most of music’s biggest pop stars, including Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Madonna, Rihanna and even Justin Bieber. Beyoncé wears several of Ban’s pieces in the video for her recently released album Lemonade. And at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute gala earlier thismonth, model Gigi Hadid looked fiercely futuristic with a $2,000 chrome manicure that was complemented by a series of Ban’s gunmetal rhodium silver custom armour rings. The designer’s bold statement jewellery is now available exclusively in Canada and at a recent dinner party I caught up with the 43-year-old former curator of a vintage couture line for U.S. retailer Barneys to talk about the success of her dramatic accessories and why pop’s strongest personalities can’t seem to get enough of them.
You’ve been collecting couture and studying it for a long time, but it wasn’t until about five years ago that you decided to start designing yourself. What made you want to create your own line?
I’ve always been a passionate collector and fashion lover and jewellery had always been a passion for me, but I felt there was something missing for me in the market. I wanted to make something for myself, so I went into it with the attitude that I would make 10pieces for myself and if nobody liked it, then at least I had 10 pieces of my own jewellery to wear. Fortunately, Barneys liked it, and Maxfield, and Dover Street Market. And suddenly, a business was born.
You make it look so easy; the roster of people who are wearing your stuff and carrying the torch for you is phenomenal. It seems like the total “who’s who” of the music world are devotees.
As much as they’re in love with my vision, they’re an inspiration to me.I’ve always loved music and strong confident women, and these pop stars that I’ve been fortunate enough to work with are the embodiment of strong, powerful woman. They’re super talented and not afraid to make a statement.
I guess that explains all your strong statement pieces.
One of my mantras is that I would rather you love it or hate it, than have no reaction to it. You can’t be like, “Oh that’s cute.” I want to be like, “F–k yeah! That’s awesome!”
But when you’re trying to create a business and build a brand that you want to resonate on a major scale, can’t that be a little scary? Don’t you want real people to be able to relate to what you’re doing? It’s not just for the rock stars.
Of course. But commercially speaking, I do think my clientele want to make a statement. Not necessarily be vulgar, but saying something and expressing themselves. That’s how fashion has always been and continues to be.
You have quite an amazing collection of fashion pieces that you hold dear – and it’s not for commercial purposes.
Not at all! I, fortunately, kept everything I’ve had since I was 16. And everything’s kind of come back around. Well-designed things last forever, and that’s something I hope to do with my jewellery. I want something that you look at 50 years from now to still look modern and relevant.
Some of these huge pop stars that you’re dressing must demand a certain kind of exclusivity. Are they demanding original pieces? I’m sure Beyoncé doesn’t want to see the ring that she wears on some other girl’s finger.
Of course, yeah. Well, actually, maybe that’s Rihanna! Beyoncé’s pretty chill. We’ve definitely cultivated a relationship and I love to do custom stuff for them. They’re all such inspirations. I listen and dance to their music everyday. They’re just strong, kick-ass sorts of women. They really inspire me. Take Gaga, for example. On this most recent season of American Horror Story she wore an ankh I designed. It was actually something that I did in my first collection back in 2011 and was inspired by the ankh that was in the opening scene of The Hunger, which starred David Bowie and Catherine Deneuve. Gaga’s character was based on Catherine Deneuve’s. Gaga’s team called and said, “Gaga’s playing this vampire, and she tells us that you have these ankhs that were inspired by The Hunger.” She knew about them because we’d sent them to her before, but then she asked me to do all the jewellery for her character.
At the end of the day, how does it make you feel when you watch a performer in a video or on stage wearing what you’ve designed?
It’s the ultimate high. It’s a gratification for all your hard work, just visualizing it and then seeing it gel with all the elements. It’s a thrill and I feel blessed everyday.
How comfortable do you feel now that you’ve got a brand name and people are coming to you as not only a designer, but as a stylist and almost as a tastemaker – someone who is going to set the tone for countless trends?
It’s a dream come true, especially because it’s not only about jewellery but about a whole vision and esthetic. That’s why I’m excited about expanding into bags. I’m designing a range of handbags – a capsule collection, but certainly something for every moment or mood that you’re in. They’re coming out in September. It’s about continuing the vision and the brand – there’s a lot of pressure in that. But I can always just go back to making things for myself.
Lynn Ban’s jewellery is available in Canada exclusively at Archives in Toronto (www.archivesltd.com).
This interview has been condensed and edited.