While most mega brands chase trends and court the millennial market, Uniqlo, the Japanese retailer that launched in 1974, has achieved cult status thanks to its selection of mid-priced basics and an egalitarian philosophy of having something for everyone. John C. Jay, Uniqlo's president of global creative, who joined the clothing company in 2014 after leaving advertising agency Weiden + Kennedy, recalls meeting with Tadashi Yanai, the founder of Fast Retailing, Uniqlo's parent company. "When I first met with [him], I had my marketing hat on," Jay recalls. "After working for 20 years with Nike, my typical question was, 'Who's our target audience?' And he said, 'That's easy, John. Everyone.'" Jay says that he was intrigued by this notion: "The ability to be relevant to everyone is really important to us. That's a challenge that we have."
The recent rise of athleisure, a merging of functional and casual wear, has created a glut of basics being offered by both mass brands and high-end designers alike. "On the surface, basics look the same," says Jay. "Even premium brands are making stuff that looks basic because that's what's important today. How do I make sure that you understand that my basic, even if it's at a third or fourth of your price, is actually better?"
Fast Retailing founder Tadashi Yanai (middle) is banking on big interest from Canadian consumers when its brand Uniqlo launches in Toronto later this month, as are John C. Jay (left), Uniqlo’s president of global creative, and Yuki Katsuta (right), Fast Retailing’s group senior vice president.
PHOTO COURTESY OF UNIQLO
While it may sound like a lofty proposition, it's one Uniqlo addresses through its positioning as a "lifewear" brand. "We don't make clothes that you want to throw away," Jay says. "It's very important that we bring quality to your life, and some kind of improvement."
There's no better example of this philosophy than the brand's HeatTech products, a range of tops and bottom made with Japanese textile maker Toray. Though a partnership with a company whose motto is "Innovation by Chemistry" might seem odd, in 1971 Japanese designer Issey Miyake used Toray's Ultrasuede fabric in one of his iconic collections, paving the way for its future fashion applications. Similarly, the HeatTech line is championed by street style photographers who have to loiter outside runway venues waiting for their next subjects to emerge.
The haute set has embraced the brand in other ways, with the likes of French style icon Ines de la Fressange and former Vogue Paris editor Carine Roitfeld creating capsule collections for Uniqlo. The sleek, unfussy principle of Parisian chic resonates with Uniqlo's pared-down aesthetic. "Never will you see a logo, except on athletes when we need to market things," says Jay. "We think of our pieces as components that allow you to create your own style."
Uniqlo's other notable collaborations include those with British fabric giant Liberty of London, the Museum of Modern Art, and a line crafted by designer and blogger Hana Tajima. Her line is a range of separates heralded for their ease-of-wear and cultural sensitivity; hijabs and a style of kebaya – her take on a traditional blouse-dress look worn in Southeast Asia – are part of the collection. Jay highlights Toronto's broad cultural spectrum as an appealing launch pad for Uniqlo's entrance into Canada. "You have one of the most diverse urban cultures in the world right now," he says.
Yet with a great audience comes great responsibility. Despite rising profits in its most recent quarter, Reuters reported that the company has consistently lost money in its U.S. expansion over the past few years, so the pressure is on for Uniqlo to touch down in Canada with a bang (the Toronto Eaton Centre location opens Sept. 30; Yorkdale opens Oct. 20). But as Jay says, it's not just about coming in strong: "We want to earn that good feeling, that trust. Opening day is one thing, but sustaining the relationship is another."
Airfare to Tokyo and accommodation were provided by Uniqlo. The company did not approve or review this article prior to publication.