Minutes before show time at the big Lincoln Center tent, a posse of celebrities, including Bette Midler, Anjelica Huston, Catherine Zeta Jones, Michael Douglas and Debra Messing, emerges from Michael Kors' backstage, and the throngs of photographers dutifully snap away. As Midler's whisked to her front row seat, she sings her friend's praises. "These aren't just clothes that women want to wear," she says. "They're clothes that women need to wear." At a time when designers are vying for a spot at the top of the fashion heap, Kors' label is "on fire" according to Holt Renfrew's president Mark Derbyshire. And you only had to look at this, Kors' 30th anniversary collection, to see why. Here was modern American luxury at its best, a greatest hits package from the past three decades, with everything from classic grey flannel suits to screen siren statements in silver fox. There were sleek maxi coats, one of the season's big trends, cashmere knit jumpsuits, and jersey evening gowns, some studded with crystals, all draped to perfection. "His pieces are timeless," noted Huston, clad in crimson Kors. But what is even more impressive is that the designer never fails to capture the zeitgeist while always staying true to his signature style.
Happily, there's still a lot of optimism in the air, and with U.S. retail sales reaching post-recessionary highs, all-American feel-good messages ran rampant through the collections. Tommy Hilfiger's upped his luxe ante with a sophisticated preppy boho collection inspired by "what a '70s rock star's girlfriend would wear." Citing his own glamourous wife, Dee Ocleppo, as a muse, Hilfiger sent out a sensual twist on the classics; silky herringbone prints teamed with leather and suede, pinstripe suits, a rich burgundy velvet jacket, silk print pyjamas and a navy-wool toggle cloak.
Diane von Furstenberg and her co-designer Yvan Mispelaere called their show American Legends, and paid tribute to the likes of Diana Vreeland, Millicent Rogers and Gloria Vanderbilt by presenting a multi-faceted vision filled with bold prints, rich jewel tones, ruffles, fringes and gaucho hats. Barbara Walters was backstage, decked out in blue DVF cashmere. "But this isn't new," she revealed with pride. "This is actually a few seasons old! I'm not much of a shopper." Von Furstenberg, who told me that many of the clothes in this collection are the types of things she wore back in the day, was quick to point out that the clothes are meant to be cross generational. "We love all strong women," she said, especially ones with the panache to wear pieces like the fabulous emerald green Mongolian lamb jacket.
There was more colourful Americana at Proenza Schouler. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez went on a road trip to Santa Fe, and became intrigued with Navajo blankets. Riffing on the exotic imagery, they came up with their own computer prints that surfaced on everything from wrap coats to cocktail frocks. Their experimentation with fabrics - the final frontier for many designers - resulted in interesting plays with jacquard, waxed leather, leather/viscose knits, and rich panne velvet. Patent shearling coats in oxblood and mustard, and elaborate macramé skirts were outstanding. "These guys are always pushing forward," commented front-row guest Chloë Sevigny.
Exoticism was also the operative word for Thakoon. In a gilded salon at the Plaza, the designer addressed various fashion tribes, and juxtaposed sensibilities and patterns in his own inimitable way. In one of his most striking statements, Thakoon took a red-and-blue check Massai pattern, whipped it into a short puffer coat with pannier sides, and teamed it with a long black taffeta skirt. African-inspired striped wool and paisley pieces and yellow floral batik prints made for great little dresses, and an all-around joyful mood. Add to that Thakoon's whimsical shoes and boots, with their pointed toes and chunky heels - some sporting fantastic painted patterns - and you've got a new twist on spirited street-style that was nothing short of eye-popping.
Oriental intrigue was also in the air, and on some very disparate runways from Oscar de la Renta to The Blonds, who were inspired by Anna May Wong, the first Chinese American movie star. The Blonds's dazzling collection oozed high glamour and gave new meaning to sparkle. But when it came to chic elegance for fall, few could hold a candle to Ralph Lauren. The 71-year-old designer made his first trip to China this past year, and plans to expand his business there, obviously wowed by what he saw. It all translated into a '30s Shanghai Art Deco fantasy. Rich velvets, satins, and intricate beadings and embroideries made for some of the most beautiful clothes of the week with slim silhouettes, masterful tailoring, and slinky evening gowns lending an air of sublime elegance. While there was still a smattering of signature Lauren tweed, the colourful dragon embroideries on jackets and coats just about stole the show.
It was a season of high sheen for many, with Marc Jacobs leading the pack. In a hodge-podge of references to some of his best past collections, the brazen designer created a striking collection chock full of whimsy. Models sporting felt, vinyl, and pony-skin berets with chin-straps (created by milliner Stephen Jones) strutted an eclectic array of outfits with strict, long and lean silhouettes. With garments made of fabrics as disparate as lace and latex, Jacobs's witty offering played with polka dots (an ode to his very first collection, twenty-odd years ago), knee-length pencil skirts, shiny mid-calf wedge boots, lots of Lurex, both real and faux fur, fake crocodile, giant dot pailettes, and plastic cabochon studs. Forget about last season's dreamy flow: Jacobs is suddenly about severity, with a healthy helping of humour.
But some of the most original and breathtaking clothes I witnessed at New York Fashion Week came from a brilliant but beleaguered designer who confided that he doesn't understand fashion any more. The accomplished Ralph Rucci, whose costly Chado label is worn by some of the world's wealthiest and most sartorially savvy women, lamented the fact that crass commercialism was killing high style in America. And the legendary 89-year-old fashion icon Iris Apfel concurred. "Individuality seems to be over in fashion," she said. "Besides, it looks like all the clothes being made these days are mostly for 12-year-olds," she complained, looking smashing in a vintage Dior red fur coat. Whoopi Goldberg and Fran Lebowitz, also front row at Rucci's show, agreed that fashion was becoming too homogeneous. So what's fashion's biggest problem? "It gets too much attention," offered Lebowitz. "All the hype is killing it, along with the rest of the culture." Heady food for thought, indeed. But in the meantime, most designers are mustering all their optimism for fall, trying to give us a reason to buy those clothes we'll not only want to wear, but feel we need to wear.
Jeanne Beker is the host of FashionTelevisio n. Her new book for young adults, Strutting It: The Grit Behind The Glamour , was recently released.