Roksanda Ilincic at an event at Hudson’s Bay in 2013. Her latest offering – entitled ‘10 years, 10 dresses’ – features pieces for both night and day. In North America, they are being carried exclusively by The Room at Hudson’s Bay.Della Rollins/The Globe and Mail
The London-based designer Roksanda Ilincic, whose dramatic and colourful frocks have been sported by a diverse group of A-listers, from Kate Middleton to Lady Gaga, presented her first show at London Fashion Week in 2005, with only a dozen dresses. She was instantly embraced by fashion insiders, who identified her as a woman who truly designs for women. Soon after, her elegant, structural designs began turning heads on red carpets around the globe. But the 38-year-old's daywear is equally as powerful, and her latest offering – a mini-collection of "greatest hits" – entitled "10 years, 10 dresses" features pieces for both night and day. In North America, they are being carried exclusively by The Room at Hudson's Bay.
A former student of architecture, Ilincic first came to Toronto to launch her collection in 2013. At the time, she lamented the speed at which fashion moves. "It doesn't allow you enough time to reconsider your past and future… to sit down and just revisit some of the previous collections. You're constantly on the go, and constantly in motion." Evidently, the designer has taken the time to smell the roses, and her retrospective collection is a testament to that. I spoke with Ilincic by phone from London about the emotions a favourite dress can hold and the plans she's setting in motion for the decade ahead.
You have such a strong vision, and one that's really resonated with women. What is this new "greatest hits" collection emblematic of for you?
Hopefully, all of my collections appeal to women who are strong and independent. But I also like a woman who is not afraid to show her emotions, her fragility and her femininity. As a female designer, I've always tried to combine both power and fragility. In this new collection, I'm trying to do the same thing, but obviously the difference is that I was able to dig into my archives.
How would you say women have changed over the past 10 years?
I think they have become much more confident about wearing colour. I'm saying this because obviously I'm a designer who has always championed bold colour combinations. And I feel much freer to do that now because 10 years ago, when I was starting out, even a purple dress would have been considered quite fashion forward. But now, a purple dress is just as acceptable as almost any subtle colour. Women have become much more playful with fashion. I also think the perception of fashion – where the fashion is coming from, how the garments are made, the well-being of the people who work on the garments – all that is coming much more into focus in the industry, which is a really good thing.
You are statuesque and your clothes make dramatic statements, especially when worn by tall women. But you've been adamant about embracing women of all shapes and sizes.
That's something I'm very proud of. I always, always consider all the body shapes and how the dresses would fit them. And women really respond to that. With all the travelling that I do, and all the trunk shows I present, I have the opportunity to meet women in different regions in the world who have different kinds of cultural needs or desires. It's really amazing to see how my dresses fit into their lifestyle.
How would you like to see the brand grow in the next decade?
There's a pace to everything, and I don't want things to be forced. At the moment, I'm working on an accessories collection and I already have a children's-wear line called Blossom, inspired by my 4-year-old daughter, and a swimwear line. I hope to see my vision growing globally, and to open more retail outlets, and more Roksanda concessions in the big department stores. Just really kind of gently taking over the world, I guess!
This interview has been condensed and edited.