Cheery looks like this colour-block coat stood out at Zac Posen’s show this week. The designer scaled down his production from recent years.STEPHEN CHERNIN
The Marc Jacobs show has ended and Lady Gaga, a studded black leather mask over her eyes, was getting ready to leave the Lexington Armoury and face a sea of paparazzi. "It was breathtaking," she responded dryly when I ask her how she liked the collection. Making a beeline for the front door, she disappears into the New York night amid an explosion of flashes.
It's not hard to understand why the eccentric Gaga is muse of the moment: The 23-year-old popster has become an icon of self-expression.
Unquestionably, what's hot in fashion right now is a strong point of view. That's why bloggers are the new fashion stars: Britain's Susie Bubble, Manila's Bryan Boy and Chicago's 13-year-old Tavi Gevinson were a buzz-worthy presence in New York this week.
It's also designers with an independent vision who are moving up the fashion ladder. San Francisco native Alexander Wang, at 23 one of the scene's hottest young designers, was a favourite at the shows. "I just want to make clothes that are wearable," he said. Wearable but innovative: sexy little suits, khaki and sweatshirt jackets, sparkly tinsel bodysuits and dresses.
Jacobs, whose unconventional collections are often harbingers, turned to the theatre for inspiration. "I was thinking of romance and getting dressed up for outings to the theatre or opera," he explained. Ruffles and frills, brocades and lamés were juxtaposed with crisp shirts and minis, baggy leggings, harem pants, fancy shorts and tailored jackets.
Vera Wang also played with romantic pieces, though hers seemed more effortless. Ruffled silk tulle, green and purple floral print gauze, washed crèpe de chine, organza and chiffon surfaced in a mélange of easy-to-wear layers.
One of American bestselling designers, Michael Kors, advocated "urban renewal" and architectural shapes. With Lady Gaga's hit Poker Face blaring through the tent, he played with asymmetry and used transparent vinyl inserts and zippers to give clothes a deconstructed feel. "I often feel that spring collections are really all about casual summer clothes. I wanted this collection to be about polished pieces, for big-city dressing," Kors said backstage.
Narciso Rodriguez went for flow and experimented with volume. His collection ran the gamut from sexy silk dresses, some in green, fuchsia, and silver prints, to more structured linen and cotton jackets and coats. Courtney Love was a surprising front-row guest. "These are clothes for ladies who lunch," she quipped. "But the last time I lunched was two years ago, when I was fat."
Zac Posen also opted for architectural finesse, with a colour-block marigold coat and dress starting his show on an optimistic note. The cheery vibe continued throughout the collection with whimsical pieces like transparent vinyl raincoats and a blue latticework jacket with marabou feather sleeves. His gowns featuring paillette flowers were especially colourful and upbeat. "I really wanted it to be all about the clothes this time," said Posen, who chose a smaller venue for his presentation. "And that's why I didn't invite any celebrities. If they want to see the clothes, they can come to my showroom."
Celebrities may well be a distraction at a fashion show, but Rachel McAdams was a welcome sight when she breezed into Proenza Schouler in a sexy blue, ruched dress. "I love what Jack [McCollough]and Lazaro [Hernandez]do!" she enthused. "And I love the theatricality of fashion shows."
Proenza didn't disappoint. The designers went for a young street feel, and gave us a tightly edited array of great jackets, fun, asymmetrical skirts, and colourful silk dresses, some shimmering with sequins in emerald and sapphire.
Celebrities, including Kirsten Dunst, Jason Schwartzman and Elijah Wood, were out in full force for Rodarte. The enigmatic California Mulleavy sisters behind Rodarte cited a trip to Death Valley, complete with vultures, as inspiring their collection. The hand-crafted black and blood-red pieces with strips of leather, twisted fringes and feathers were presented in swirl of a faux fog and reflected a horror-film aesthetic. "We really do see ourselves as storytellers," Kate Mulleavy said. "That's likely what people find so intriguing," her sister Laura said.
But despite the new guard, the legends are still in the game. Oscar de la Renta offered a collection for the "new, modern woman" - a "doer" who is successful and involved in her community. Like many designers now, he is working not only to hang onto the customer he has, but also recruit new ones.
The optimistic buzz is that by next spring - if not sooner - we'll be ready to spend again. "But with so much out there, and so much already in their closets, women need a reason to shop," veteran designer Ralph Rucci says. "We have to seduce women," he insists. "Essentially, it's got to be sexy."
Jeanne Beker is the host of Fashion Television.