Many factors influence my wine recommendations, with deliciousness being the first determination of what merits publication.
Priority is given to samples with a compelling character that stand out. I also consider seasonality: While I would feature thirst-quenching bottles in July’s roundup, this week’s selections are singled out to brighten the dark days of February with mouth-coating flavours and robust characters that really satisfy.
Price and availability across the country are also important factors, but there are always significant challenges on that front, especially given Canada’s changing retail landscape. Charting availability is tricky in ordinary times; however, extraordinary measures might see products from the United States removed from shelves in response to Donald Trump’s promised tariffs on Canadian goods: Last week, Doug Ford said he directed the LCBO to remove U.S. alcoholic beverages from shelves if the tariffs are imposed.
If it comes to it, there is a sea of alternatives to popular wine brands from California, Washington State and Oregon and no shortage of whiskies from other parts of the world to drink instead. Canadian wine and spirits producers always welcome an opportunity to showcase their wares, particularly to anyone out of touch with the increasing quality on offer.
At a time of declining consumption, pretty much every producer of alcohol is looking to attract a new audience.
Batasiolo Barbera d’Alba 2022 (Italy), $17.99
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The family-owned Bene di Batasiolo winery controls more than 320 acres (130-plus hectare) in Piedmont. Producing Barolo is the major focus, but they also make this expressive barbera from estate vineyards in Alba. The bright and intense character reveals classic cherry and berry flavours with herbal and earthy notes. This is an approachable red to enjoy with food or own its own. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in British Columbia.
Bogle Merlot 2021 (United States), $20.80
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The Bogle family planted its first vineyards in Clarksburg, Calif., in 1968 and launched its winery 10 years later. Over the years they have been well-known for producing concentrated and generous wines such as this. More commercial than complex, this offers a core of sweet fruit and chocolate flavours that are easy to appreciate. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $27.23 in New Brunswick, $24.36 in Prince Edward Island, $25.72 in Newfoundland.
La Ferme du Mont Les Marnes Bleues Rasteau 2022 (France), $26.95
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Named for the mineral-rich blue clay soil found in the vineyard, Les Marnes Bleues is a blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre from the southern Rhône village of Rasteau. It’s a fragrant and flavourful red that checks the boxes by offering characteristic freshness, concentration and structure as part its generous and juicy character. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Hess Collection Allomi Pinot Noir 2021 (United States), $53.45
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Produced with pinot noir grapes grown in estate vineyards in different locations throughout the Napa Valley, Allomi is a ripe and supple red with a core of sweet cherry and berry fruit flavours. Savoury and spice notes add complexity to this fuller-bodied expression (14.5 per cent abv) which is nicely balanced with a lingering finish. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Exclusive Brut Rosé Champagne (France), $57.25
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Nicolas Feuillatte’s appealing pink champagne is made from an equal blend of pinot noir and pinot meunier with a small addition of chardonnay (10 per cent) and aged two years on the lees before release. The cuvée typically includes 15 to 18 per cent red wine, which contributes to the bright pink hue and red fruit flavours. It’s charming and easy-to-appreciate. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $61.50 in Quebec.
Orso Bruno Old-Vine Zinfandel 2022 (Italy), $9.75
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Puglia’s primitivo grape is genetically identical to zinfandel, which allows the clever marketers behind Orso Bruno to put a more North American-friendly label on this easy-drinking Italian red wine. The fruity and savoury style is designed to please, with evident dark fruit, spice and earthy notes on display alongside a sweeter character owing the the 11 g/litre residual sweetness. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $18.99 in British Columbia.
Torres Sangre de Toro Red Catalunya 2021 (Spain), $17.99
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A red blend of grenache and carignan from Catalonia in Spain delivers a dry and satisfying red with a savoury character. The flavours suggest spice and herbal notes with tart cherry flavours in a wine that’s best enjoyed with a meal. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $17.99 in Saskatchewan, $16.99 in Manitoba, $17.41 in New Brunswick, $16.54 in Prince Edward Island, $16.90 in Newfoundland.
Small Gully The Formula Robert’s Shiraz 2019 (Australia), $17.65
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This ripe and full-bodied shiraz is produced with grapes grown in South Australia, with most of the blend coming from old vines (50-plus years of age) in the hamlet of Marananga in the Barossa. The dry style is made for mass appeal and shows a mix of red and dark fruit with oak-derived cedar and spice notes. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario ($15.65 until Feb. 2), various prices in Alberta.
Yalumba Galway Vintage Shiraz 2021 (Australia), $17.90
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First produced in 1943, Yalumba revived its historic Galway label with the 2001 vintage. Made in ripe and juicy style, the 2021 release shows a layered and elegant expression of Barossa shiraz, offering a mix of floral, peppery spice and vanilla notes that add interest to the dark fruit flavours. Soft tannins and a refreshing character add to the appeal. Drink now to 2028. Vegan. Available in Ontario.