When winemaker Randall Grahm looked for a commercial hook to market his grenache-and-syrah blend from California, he came across a strange 1950s-era law forbidding flying saucers from landing in the vineyards in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. An unidentified aerial phenomena in September, 1954, inspired the municipal decree to prevent aliens from flying over the southern France region.
The result was Le Cigare Volant, which has become one of Grahm’s most recognizable labels and one of California’s best-known Rhône-style red wines. Despite having sold Bonny Doon, Grahm continues to serve as director of winemaking and takes special interest in blending the wine he calls Bonny Doon’s spiritual centre.
I look forward to tasting the new vintage of Le Cigare Volant every year – and buying bottles to drink and serve to guests. The story behind the label never fails to stir up conversation and, more importantly, the wine inspires praise as well.
The recently released 2022 vintage displays the fruity and spicy character of wines made from grenache and syrah in a style that offers year-round enjoyment. It’s a red that’s robust enough to savour during the colder months and fresh enough to enjoy during the summer.
Le Cigare Volant is recommended alongside other distinctive red and white selections that are worth seeking out to drink now or later.
Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant 2022 (United States), $19.10
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First produced in 1984, Le Cigare Volante is one of Bonny Doon’s most identified labels. This red Rhône-style blend is a mix of grenache, syrah, cinsault and petite sirah. It offers a fresh and complex mix of fruit, floral and spicy notes, with appealing concentration and character. The style is dry, medium-bodied and balanced with a smooth texture and lingering finish. Drink now to 2029. Screwcap. Available at the above price in Ontario and Quebec, various prices in Alberta, $24.37 in New Brunswick.
CedarCreek Jagged Rock Chardonnay 2022 (Canada), $52
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For this rich and refreshing white wine, the winemaking team at CedarCreek in Kelowna, B.C., works with organically grown chardonnay grapes from Jagged Rock vineyard near Oliver. Expect a bright and complex style, with citrus, honey and earthy notes broadcast as part of a medium-bodied wine with an interesting contrast between the creamy texture and crisp finish. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price direct, cedarcreek.bc.ca, $44.99 in British Columbia.
Hervé Azo Petit Chablis 2022 (France), $25.20
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Owned by Jean-Marc Brocard, one of the first organic producers in Chablis, Hervé Azo takes a traditional approach to winemaking, fermenting and aging in stainless steel tanks to preserve the regional steely and refreshing style of chardonnay. This dry white is medium-bodied and refined, offering vibrant citrus with a mix of creamy and stony notes. It’s stylish and solid value. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.
J. Moreau & Fils Glorie de Chablis 2023 (France), $27.80
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Part of the Boisset family’s portfolio, J. Moreau has been producing chardonnay-based wines in Chablis since 1814. This 2023 offering is a textbook example; a nicely balanced, dry white with citrus and apple flavours rounded out by floral and earthy notes that carry through to a refreshing, lingering finish. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, $36.46 in Newfoundland.
Orestiadi Molino a Vento Syrah 2022 (Italy), $13
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Produced with syrah grapes grown in Sicily, this inexpensive red wine captures the berry, black cherry and peppery spice character of the variety with some floral and earthy notes. The style is concentrated and fruity thanks to winemaking practices that include fermentation in stainless steel tanks followed by a short spell (four months at the most) aging in oak barrels. It’s easy to appreciate and flavourful. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.
Mouton Cadet Bordeaux Red 2022 (France), $15.55
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A long-time liquor-store staple, Mouton Cadet is worthy of a revisit thanks to continuing improvements behind the scenes. The classic red blend is made with merlot and small additions of both cabernets. The result is a satisfying red with a smooth texture, offering a mix of dark and red fruit with earthy and spicy notes. The style presents appealing fragrance and structure that captures the freshness of Bordeaux with depth and richness that add to the appeal. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $21.49 in Saskatchewan, $19.99 in Manitoba, $18.70 in Quebec, $20.89 in New Brunswick, $22.98 in Nova Scotia, $18.54 in Prince Edward Island, $16.37 in Newfoundland.
Pierre Sparr Grande Réserve Gewurztraminer 2022 (France), $18.20
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A pungent representation of the grape variety and Pierre Sparr’s ripe and generous house style, this gewurztraminer from Alsace shows classic spice, floral and honey notes. Made in an off-dry style (17 g/litre residual sweetness), this reveals tropical fruit and peach notes as part of its creamy texture. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.
Penfolds Max’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Australia), $30.99
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Named in honour of Max Schubert, Penfolds’s chief winemaker who launched Grange, this ripe and engaging red is produced with cabernet sauvignon grapes grown in vineyards across South Australia. The core of dark fruit is enhanced by savoury and oak-derived chocolate and spice notes. The style is rich, pure and layered; made for mass appeal and benefiting from one of the best and most abundant recent vintages. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand), $17.40
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Established in 1994, Wither Hills focuses on growing grapes in the Wairau Valley region of Marlborough. Its entry-level sauvignon blanc offers zesty citrus and intense herbal and grass flavours as part of a dry and balanced expression. Lots to enjoy for lovers of fragrant and flavourful sauvignon blanc. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia (private stores) and Alberta.