Depending on my mood while shopping, I might be moved to purchase bottles based on a label’s aesthetic appeal or authoritative seal of approval. I am influenced by wine labels. Everyone is.
Whether they capture our imagination with eye-catching designs or inspire trust (better yet, thirst) with visual cues, a wine’s label is largely important for triggering its sale. The look of the bottle combined with its retail price give the consumer confidence to make an easy purchase.
The label should tell us what’s in the bottle. Everything we need to know about the wine should be on display: The name of the brand or winery, vintage year and the country of origin, followed by region, village or vineyard depending on the specificity of the grape sourcing.
The grapes used to make the wine are usually writ large. Grape names are even cropping up on wine labels from Burgundy, Bordeaux and Rioja, where wineries used to simply broadcast their regional appellation and assume consumers would know which varieties are grown in local vineyards.
Generic labels, such as rosé, worked when pink wine was in high demand a few years ago. But as that fad fades away, consumers need to know more – is it made from a single grape variety or a blend? – to decide if it’s a style of wine they want to drink.
Beyond that, the shape and weight of the bottle might help attract – or repel – interest. Heavy bottles used to (literally) be a flex to underscore the calibre of the wine but are now viewed as unnecessary waste. Unusual colour choices, such as blue, red or gold, might add visual appeal but risk making the product look inferior.
The wines recommended in this column are singled out by the quality of the wine in the glass. The look of the label isn’t a consideration in the review or rating.
The range of labels on display this week include several “just-the-facts, ma’am” European labels with varying degrees of window dressing from the clean and straightforward look embraced by Evel to more stylized looks chosen for Altesino’s Brunello and Pascal Bouchard’s aligoté.
The most notable design is La Vieille Ferme Luberon Blanc, a brand created by the Perrin family in 1970. Embracing the rooster and hen on the label, social-media commenters on Tiktok rebranded the affordable range of white, red and rosé wines from the Rhône as “the chicken wine.” A limited edition of the easier to pronounce The Chicken Wine was sold at Sainsbury’s stores late last year in a bid to capitalize on the viral marketing.
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2019 (Italy), $68.95
Rogers and Company/Supplied
A blend of sangiovese from four different estate vineyards in Montalcino, this shows the complex and full-bodied character that makes Brunello celebrated around the world. The mix of savoury, earthy and fruity notes make a tremendous first impression – it’s sangiovese in all its heady glory. Those flavours replay on the palate, conveyed with bright acidity as part of a long and layered character. Drink now to 2040. It has 13 per cent ABV and three grams/litre r.s. Available at the above price in Ontario, $66.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand), $23.95
FWM Canada/Supplied
Astrolabe works with sauvignon blanc from a range of vineyards across Marlborough to blend this dry and distinctive white. Pure and precise grapefruit and lime notes are the foundation for a refreshing and intense model of sauvignon blanc with impressive concentration and length. Drink now to 2028. It has 13 per cent ABV and two grams/litre r.s. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Attems Pinot Grigio 2023 (Italy), $19.95
Mark Anthony/Supplied
This is a satisfyingly flavourful and textural pinot grigio from the Frescobaldi family’s winery in Fruili in northeastern Italy. Made in a medium-bodied style, this is nicely balanced with a ripe core of yellow apple and pear contrasted with grapefruit and herbal notes that add freshness and interest to the lingering finish. Drink now. It has 12.5 per cent ABV and four grams/litre r.s. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $20.55 in Quebec.
Evel Tinto 2021 (Portugal), $14.95
Real Companhia Velha/Supplied
First produced in 1913, Evel is a blend of red wine grapes common to the Douro region. Made in an approachable juicy and medium-bodied style, this offers attractive dark fruit, tobacco and spice notes. Drink now. It has 13.5 per cent ABV and three grams/litre r.s. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta.
La Vieille Ferme Luberon Blanc 2023 (France), $13.80
Charton Hobbs/Supplied
Part of the Rhône region, Luberon produces red, white and rosé wines. This simple yet satisfying white from the Perrin family continues to be a standout. A blend of grenache blanc, vermentino and other varieties offers a crowd-pleasing mix of citrus, peach and floral notes. Drink now. It has 13 per cent ABV and two grams/litre r.s. Available at the above price in Ontario, $14.99 in British Columbia and Manitoba, various prices in Alberta, $16.99 in Saskatchewan and New Brunswick, $14.25 in Quebec, $17.48 in Nova Scotia, $17.80 in Prince Edward Island, $19.37 in Newfoundland.
Pascal Bouchard Réserve Saint-Pierre Bourgogne Aligoté 2022 (France), $22.95
Woodman Wines & Spirits; Inc./Supplied
This bright and tasty aligoté comes from a wine producer based in Chablis. Fermentation in tank and a spell aging with the lees (dead yeast left over from fermentation) has yielded a charming, citrusy white with some earthy and toasty accents. The dry style makes this a versatile wine to enjoy with a meal or on its own. Drink now. It has 12 per cent ABV and two grams/litre r.s. Available at the above price in Ontario, $23.20 in Quebec.