Ryan Carter
What: According to The Book of Fungi: A Life-size Guide to Six Hundred Species From Around the World, all Cantharellus and Craterellusspecies are collectively known as chanterelles, but arguably one of the tastiest is the goldenCantharellus cibarius. These fleshy mushrooms, which grow wild on forest floors, are shaped like funnels, with ridges running beneath their convex caps. They are often described as slightly peppery, with a fruity, apricot-like aroma. An edible look-alike species called the Pacific Golden Chanterelle, Cantharellus formosus, is also commonly harvested.
When: Generally available from late August until November.
How: Chef Andrey Durbach is serving plenty of chanterelles during his Game and Wild Mushroom Festival, on until Oct. 23, at his Vancouver restaurants La Buca, Pied-à-Terre and Cafeteria. If you want to avoid soggy mushrooms, follow Mr. Durbach's instructions on how to prepare and sauté them the right way.
For perfect sautéed mushrooms, "you can't just take them and chuck them in a pan," he says.
Make sure you clean them well first. Use a dry paper towel or mushroom brush to wipe them off. Don't run them under water, as they'll soak up the moisture and won't brown when you cook them. Then, with a paring knife, peel away the grimy outer layer of the stems.
Crank your stove on high, and heat up a nonstick pan. Add a couple tablespoons of olive oil and a tablespoon of butter. Once well heated, add the cleaned chanterelles to the pan, making sure you don't overcrowd them (or they will steam instead of sauté). You should hear a sizzling sound.
After about a minute, add one chopped clove of garlic and let sit another 20 seconds or so. The mushrooms should develop a nice brown colour. Add the juice of one lemon and a tablespoon or two of soy sauce, and toss quickly.
"Then," Mr. Durbach says, "sprinkle some chopped parsley in, and you have a lovely little dish of chanterelle mushrooms. You can take that mixture and you can spoon it over a steak or you can spoon it over a little pan-fried chicken breast."