He has been credited with revolutionizing the Toronto dining scene with trendy west end restaurants that produce lineups around the block. His latest spot, Bar Raval, is a Spanish tapas bar on College Street as well as the summer's must-hit patio. Here, Grant Van Gameren shares some of the secrets to his success, including why selecting an espresso cup is no small matter
It's not the eating, it's the experience
Lighting, ambience – these might seem like smaller things, but it's all part of a bigger picture. To be a great restaurant these days, you have to provide a great experience. People aren't going out for dinner just to eat any more, they're going to have an experience. It's a new pastime. So often you see new restaurants that are tables, chairs, a bar and some conception or food or whatever, but there are no feelings and experience involved. I just got back from Vancouver and there was no true identity [in terms of the restaurants]. When people have a choice of where to go, often they're going to their memory and they are probably not remembering exactly what they ate. They're remembering a feeling.
The complications of a coffee cup
You see restaurants trying to rush an opening, but I really love to take my time and to overthink things. Bar Raval was such a crazy project. We spent two days trying to decide on the espresso cups. We were thinking about going in the direction of fabric covers using Spanish textiles, serving the sugar differently, putting the spoon in a shot glass. Ultimately we decided to just go back to the most simple, basic option [the traditional, white espresso cup]. There is already so much stimulus in the restaurant and this was one thing that should just stay basic. I think often you come back to that original concept, but it's all about playing out the ideas and looking in every direction.
The most important touches go unnoticed
One of the big things I've been focusing on in the last year or so is: How do we not get noticed? Everybody is trying to get noticed – they're doing things, hiring PR firms, throwing events. How about working toward the opposite? How about when you're dining with five people [at Bar Isabel] and you order the bone marrow dish that usually comes with four pieces of bread – what we do here is that the server will make a note that there are five people, so when that dish comes, there are five pieces of bread. The customers don't notice that anything has happened, but when there are four pieces, it's an awkward moment.
Don't get too big for your apron
When Gordon Ramsay came into the Black Hoof [the restaurant that van Gameren used to co-own], he waited for his table with everyone else, he talked to people, he laughed, he hung out in the kitchen for half an hour. Here's a guy who's been doing this day in day out for 20 years, and it's a reminder not to get too full of yourself. It's not just that it's part of the job, it's about having a genuine character. I've also had some interaction with some of the top chefs who think they're too good to engage with regular people. The rock-star chef thing is great if it brings attention to food and the work we do. We work very hard and it's nice to have that recognized, but at the end of the day we just cook food.
A guilt trip is better than a tantrum
As a chef, if you're in a position where you need to yell at people and degrade them, I would say you probably don't have control of your kitchen. I've worked in kitchens like that and it is just not the environment I want to create. It's okay to be upset if something goes wrong, but [in terms of discipline]. I much prefer to use guilt. You look at them and it can be a silent reprimand, and I think it's a lot more effective. We do long hours here, a lot of people work very hard, and the last thing they need is an angry chef yelling at them.
This interview has been condensed and edited by Courtney Shea.
Special to The Globe and Mail