Garrison Brewing of Halifax made its first beer 15 years ago, bringing fine craft beer to a province that knows how to hoist a celebratory mug. The beers excel, perhaps none so much as this glorious cola-coloured elixir. There's history in the bottle, too. Spruce beer was common throughout Eastern Canada and the United States centuries ago. Yes, the style is made with portions of the tree, in this case spruce and fir tips along with blackstrap molasses and dates. Evergreen may seem an odd flavouring, but not when you consider, say, pine nuts (the edible evergreen seeds) or rosemary (another evergreen plant). This compelling seasonal brew, at 7.5-per-cent alcohol, is full-bodied yet tangy, with a rich core of molasses that harmonizes beautifully with just the right aromatic level of – this seems the best way to describe it – Christmas tree. There's even a subtle cola flavour that matches the colour. Moderate bitterness and fine effervescence help give it a dry, clean finish. Great for hearty winter stews, bison burgers and game, such as venison. Available in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and now also at Ontario LCBO stores.