The new, modern label of this old favourite, with bold script running sideways like a book spine, looks a tad out of place among the dowdy labels in the Burgundy aisle. The wine is clean and modern, too, but it still shows fine French composure, which is impressive for a white at this price. Medium-bodied, round and fresh, with tropical fruit and good acidity, it even whispers with an oh-so-Burgundian note of mineral – if you listen closely.