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The late actor Fred MacMurray (the cheating husband in The Apartment and, later, nice-guy single dad on TV's My Three Sons) would host the likes of John Wayne at his ranch hideaway in the northern California hills. He made no wine but the beautiful property now is in the Gallo family's capable hands. This Sonoma Coast bottling is full-bodied and round, with a delectable hint of sweetness underpinning the ripe fruit, balanced by lively acidity. If you close your eyes, I swear you'll also taste buttered popcorn, which I suspect would have made the actor smile.

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