Here's a well-known centuries-old producer (Antinori) and a classic appellation of southern Tuscany (Brunello) marching to a contemporary drumbeat. Many Brunellos this old veer toward the dried, prune-like, leafy side of the spectrum. This one's fresh, showing ripe plum, violet and mineral, with just a trace of tobacco. The tannins are substantial but fine-grained. It could cellar nicely for at least 10 more years.