The most famous Châteauneuf, Beaucastel comes at a scary price, but it tends to age beautifully, developing glorious complexity with 15 to 20 years, a big reason for the premium. The ripeness here is perfect, and there's no trace of the love-it-or-hate-it funky barnyard quality that has come to typify the organically farmed brand. It is handsomely structured, with cherry and licorice up front and nuances of herb and beef jus.