André Lurton, whose name graces this label and that of several other chateaux, knows Bordeaux as well as anyone. At 88, he should. He has been active in wine and local wine politics most of his adult life, even serving as part-time mayor of his home village, Grézillac, for more than 40 years. Cruzeau is a benchmark for quality in the mid-range of Bordeaux's hierarchy, and the 2009 is impressive. Juicy, bracing and brimming with blackcurrant, it delivers the invigorating mineral-like character so treasured by fans of the region. Drink it over the next six years.