Guigal, the large Northern Rhône-based producer, delivered admirably here with fruit from the southern part of the valley. It's perfectly ripe (not excessively so, as in many counterpart Gigondas from sunny 2009), with meaty texture, succulent cassis and a nuance of game to go along with the up-front savoury layers of white pepper and fresh herbs. Plenty of fine-grained tannins give it structure to develop for eight years at least. $31 in Quebec, $38.39 in Newfoundland.