From the near-perfect 2009 growing season in Beaujolais, it delivers the essence of the gamay grape. Light, chewy, cherry-like and floral, it's exceedingly fresh and almost too young. A year in the cellar could add to the charm. Incidentally, the Ponciago estate was taken over in 2008 by the Henriot family, which owns the respected Burgundy labels Bouchard Père et Fils and William Fèvre. This is a red that would pair well with fish, pork and lots of vegetarian fare. It's available in Quebec for $16.95 and by special order in British Columbia and Alberta for $22.99 through www.woodmanwinesandspirits.com.