Kiwi winemakers are increasingly embracing pinot gris, an aromatic variety they believe could give sauvignon blanc a run for its money. I find the prevailing style a little two sweet and would sooner opt for the equally sweet but much more appropriately luscious style of Alsace. Some, like this example from one of New Zealand's major export brands, find their mark. Silky, with layered flavours of baked apple, lime zest, pear and peach, the enticing 2011 finishes dry. Try it with sautéed freshwater fish. $19.99 in B.C., $22.99 in N.S., $24.48 in Nfld.