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pick of the week

This excellent Halifax brew owes its bitter-yet-succulent character to a technique known as wet hopping. Hops, which give beers their bitter edge, are the seed cones of a plant. They're fragile and tend to compost soon after harvest. That's why the vast majority of beer is made with dried hops that come in pellet form. Many enterprising craft brewers, such as Garrison, have begun adding newly harvested, green (or "wet") hops to the kettle. It takes effort because the hops must be rushed from field to brewery in a matter of about 24 hours. Garrison relies on four local suppliers for this limited-run, hop-to-it seasonal offering: Meander River Farm, FiddleHop Farms, Ross Farm Museum and Wysmykal Farm. (Why "3 Fields?" Because it was first brewed four years ago with hops from three rather than four suppliers.) It's unusually complex and well-balanced, with a tantalizing fruit-like character suggesting peach, citrus and banana set against bracing bitterness and pine-like freshness; $5.50 in New Brunswick.

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