How often does the world enthuse about pinot blanc? Not often. A close relative of pinot noir and pinot gris, it tends to be relatively shy and neutral. Don't tell that to the Mavety family behind Blue Mountain, which clearly knows its way around this variety. Medium-full-bodied, silky and round, the wine offers up pear and apricot fruit with nuances of flint, smoke, lemon zest and mineral. It's got the flavour, balance and complexity to make you want to forget chardonnay – for a while, at least. Available direct from the estate, bluemountainwinery.com.