Perhaps you know this wine. It's as familiar as they come. An anchor of unpretentious Italian-restaurant wine lists for decades, it comes in a distinctive bowling-pin-shaped bottle. (I believe I may have shared a bottle on a dinner-and-bowling date way back when.) The 2012 is a good buy, crisp, with bright cherry fruit, a savoury note and lightly chalky tannins. Very versatile at the table; $15.99 in B.C., $19.10 in Saskatchewan, $15.22 in Manitoba, $16.45 in Quebec (currently on sale for $14.95), $17.99 in New Brunswick, $17.99 in Nova Scotia, $17.45 in Prince Edward Island.