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This tastes as though it is made far from the meddling hands of a North American wine consultant interested in crowd-pleasing smoothness. And it was. Puglia, Italy's heel, specializes in negroamaro, a sometimes bitter red grape with solid structure and savoury essence. This one's medium-full-bodied and juicy, with dark fruit, cherry, spices and a hint of licorice. Most conspicuous, though, are the tannins, which deliver their astringent wallop to the sides and bottom of the tongue. Decant it if you can. It's a good value. Available in Ontario.

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