This is elegant sauvignon blanc for insiders – no indication of grape on the front label, not even a familiar regional designation like "Sancerre" or "Pouilly-Fumé" to give it away. Yet, like those two appellations, it's from the grape's finest source, the Loire Valley. And it's grand, from one of the valley's excellent producers. The 2011 "Le Charnay" is silky and plump, with abundant soft stone-fruit and mineral characters, tight acidity and a satisfyingly chalky texture. Available only in Quebec.