A description on the label reads "raised in concrete." No, the vines did not grow up in a Vancouver high-rise. After maturing in barrel, the wine was placed in egg-shaped concrete vessels for an additional period of rest and flavour evolution. The material, long used in traditional European wine-making, is on the rise again. Unlike oak barrels, concrete imparts no outside flavour, letting the fruit's pure essence shine through. And unlike stainless steel, it is porous, if microscopically so. Proponents believe concrete's rough surface and tiny air pockets soften and enhance a wine's texture. This is impressive pinot, medium-bodied and jammy, with raspberry-cherry flavours getting supporting roles from earthy beetroot and sweet baking spices. Light, dusty tannins provide structure. Great for grilled salmon. Available direct from the B.C. winery at okanagancrushpad.com.