A young winery in Lillooet on the Fraser River, a couple of hours northeast of Vancouver, Fort Berens recently took home a coveted Lieutenant-Governor's Award for Excellence in B.C. wines for its estate riesling, an auspicious way to celebrate the opening of its new winery building and visitor centre. But Fort Berens is hardly a one-hit wonder, turning out excellent reds as well as other whites. This 2012 pinot is deliciously balanced, mid-weight and brimming with red berries enlivened by baking spices, toasty oak and a dusty cowboy trail of earthiness. A good choice for grilled Pacific salmon (fortberens.ca).