A rock-solid merlot from the Okanagan Valley's estimable Painted Rock, this is built for the long haul, worthy of the sort of cellar time collectors tend to reserve for the classic, structured merlots of Bordeaux's Pomerol district. Big and lavishly oaked, having spent 18 months in French barrels (50-per-cent new), it's a powerhouse of ripe, blackberry-jam and cherry-like fruit supported by notes of vanilla, licorice, tobacco and cedar, pulled in tight against a firm tannic spine. Decant it and treat it to a juicy steak now or keep it for a dozen years to see what develops. Available at B.C. Liquor Stores or direct, paintedrock.ca.