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Smell it and for a moment it smacks faintly of truck exhaust on an autostrada in Italy. But, odd as it may sound, in a good way. The heady aromatics waft over crisp, razor-sharp acidity and nuances of herbs, flowers and jasmine tea. A bright, light Italian white for those on the hunt for something outside the pinot grigio mainstream. Try it with grilled shellfish. Available in Ontario.

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