Don't leave Eastern Ontario's growing wine-tourism destination of Prince Edward County without a visit to Exultet. The offerings are expensive, yes, more in line with what you'd expect from hoity-toity Napa. But you're not paying to support accountants and half-million-dollar-an-acre land values here; it's a passionate craft operation focused on cutting down harvest yields to better ripen fruit from a good but challenging growing area. This 2013 white is luscious, with grilled-pineapple, buttered popcorn, caramel and vanilla richness balanced by bright, Prince Edward County acidity and an herbal zing on the finish. Generously oaked but balanced. Pair it with rich fish dishes. Available direct, exultet.ca.