Sake from California? It exists. In fact, there's a lot of it, though mostly undistinguished and made from ordinary table rice, destined for slurping warm. This one's another story, made at the Berkeley outpost of Japanese sake company Takara. Made from select rice grown in the Sacramento Valley and snow-melt water from the Sierra Nevada, it's seductively oily-smooth, with notes of pear, coconut, licorice and a nuance of cracked pepper. Serve it cold.