On the heavier side of medium-bodied, this marvellously tuned pinot gris shows excellent midpalate weight and concentration, with tangerine and pear fruit, invigorating acid tension and a subtle, smoky-mineral quality on the long, tingly finish. A deftly blended cuvée that was mostly fermented and aged in stainless-steel tanks and 40-per-cent fermented and matured in oak. Brilliant. Available direct, bluemountainwinery.com.