The pretty retro label employs typefaces that hark back to the heyday of the French-bistro aesthetic. And this is the sort of humble and very sound red one might associate with Hemingway washing down steak frites at La Closerie des Lilas. Medium-bodied and crisp, it delivers a classic southern Rhône profile in a balanced, harmonious package, juicy with cherry-currant fruit and lively with black pepper. A bargain. Available at the above price in Ontario. Newly available for $13.99 in B.C., $14.25 in Quebec, $14.99 in Nova Scotia.