A marvellous organic chardonnay from the Marlborough-region estate of cinematographer Michael Seresin, this has the graceful balance and subtle complexity of excellent white Burgundy at less than half the price. Medium-full-bodied, it suggests notes of grilled pineapple, buttered popcorn, apple and flinty matchstick. Fermented with wild yeast and barrel-aged on its lees for 11 months for creamy texture and that gloriously smoky nuance, it maintains lively tension with crisp acidity. Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.93 in Manitoba.