The last time I reviewed this bubbly, 2 1/2 years ago, it cost $3 more and I liked it a little less (though like it I did). That's an equation worthy of cork-popping celebration, I'd say. Made in the bottle-fermented Champagne style, this Spanish bargain is organic and about as dry as they come. The "brut nature" designation means it received no dosage, the sugar injection most sparkling wines receive to counterbalance naturally high acidity. Spaniards are particularly fond of the bracing style, which has caught on not quite so much elsewhere. I suspect I must have been Spanish in a previous life because I'm a fan of high-acid bubblies. So, consider yourself warned. This is not for the faint of palate. But compelling it is, with a chalky texture carrying green apple, lemon-lime and toasty bread notes along with a touch of honey. Available in Ontario.