The "Alba" here is not to be confused with the northern Piedmontese town associated with Barolo and white truffles. Morro d'Alba is a town in the Marche region, the hamstring of the Italian boot. According to the book Wine Grapes, co-authored by Jancis Robinson, lacrima do morro d'alba was near extinction in 1985, when the vine's total plantings measured just 2.5 acres. By 2000, it had expanded to 252 acres. This is an usual and tantalizingly offbeat red, medium-bodied with scents of strawberry and talcum powder. On the palate, it delivers additional notes of chewy cherry, herbs and cracked pepper. Baked ham would be a fine match.