The name is a tribute to the Rolling Stones hit Sympathy for the Devil, but it's also a double entendre, alluding to the rocks in the vineyard that absorb and radiate the sun's heat to the vines. Winemaker Irène Tolleret blasts Stones music to the fermenting wines. This syrah-based red from the southern Languedoc is more complex than the price or appellation might suggest. Full-bodied, tannic and muscular, it exhibits a strong savoury character suggesting black pepper and herbs along with a note of rubber. This is a tough, gutsy French red, not a smooth shiraz-style crowd-pleaser. Give it up to eight years in the cellar or try it now with herb-infused meat stews. Available in Ont.