I became an instant fan of Signac's wines on a visit years ago to the winery's quaint stone farmhouse. This premium bottling is blended from grenache, syrah and carignan, three of the four signature red varieties in the region (the fourth is mourvèdre). Muscular and concentrated, it's a knockout punch delivered with a velvet glove. Dark plum, black pepper and dried herbs form the flavour trilogy; the punch comes from 15-per-cent alcohol, which – if I had to quibble slightly – peeks through on the slightly hot finish. $22.55 in Que.