Cairanne is a village in the large Côtes-du-Rhône appellation, one of several overachieving districts in which producers are permitted to distinguish their offerings using the village name. That quality is in evidence here, revealing notes of cassis, chocolate, herbs and a toasty, charred quality. Impressive in its complexity, it comes with a solid spine of fine-grained tannins. It could improve with up to 10 years' rest.