Aglianico is considered by many to be the noblest of southern Italy's red grapes, though it was virtually unheard of in North America 20 years ago. Thanks to the attention of such globally influential critics as Robert Parker, it is enjoying a time in the spotlight. This one may not be as cellar-worthy as the best, but it is seductive. Full-bodied and initially sweet, it follows through with hints of roasted game, herbs, smoke and incense, tucked in on the finish by crisp acidity and tannins. Try it with roast beef or roast lamb.