Sagrantino, an ancient red variety mainly confined to the area around Montefalco in the northern region of Umbria, had virtually disappeared by the 1960s. Marco Caprai, of the Arnaldo– Caprai winery, led the renaissance, and now the grape is a signature of many producers in the zone. A shrinking violet it's not. Big flavour and big tannins are its trademarks. With Tabarrini's Colle Grimaldesco you can expect big alcohol, too – as in a thundering 17 per cent. This monster, available in limited quantities in select Ontario Vintages stores, suggests a cross between zinfandel and amarone, with syrupy richness, a whisper of raisin, lively spice and solid tannic backbone. The alcohol does, alas, peek through, a minor drawback to an otherwise superb wine. It needs rich food, such as braised beef short ribs or a cheese board.