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spirit of the week

Tullibardine, just 45 minutes or so from Glasgow and Edinburgh, is a puppy compared with many of its age-old Scottish kin. Founded in 1947, it was batted around by a series of owners over the decades until the big firm of Whyte and Mackay, with an oversupply accumulating at its other operations, shut it down in 1994. Nine years later, a consortium of five businessmen rescued the place and fired up the stills anew. There aren't many independent distilleries left in Scotland. This is one of them. I especially like this particular, malty-earthy bottling. It's round and attractively balanced, with a pronounced barley-cereal character and whiff of smoke answered by vanilla, butterscotch and citrus. And it's spicy and substantial, at 46-per-cent alcohol, a big bargain for good Highland single malt. $59.56 in B.C., $42.11 in Manitoba.

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