The International AIDS Conference, like most big medical conferences, is held in a giant, soulless convention centre. But, with its odd mix of scientists, clinicians, politicians, humanitarian groups, social activists, rock stars and business moguls, it is not your typical medical meeting.
Beyond the dry scientific presentations and the weighty research abstracts, there is a parallel stream of street theatre in the form of die-ins, political speeches, condom distribution, trashing of exhibitor booths and well orchestrated multilingual protests.
There is also a much-anticipated march through the streets of the host city that serves to underscore the theme of the conference and provides valuable video and photos for media outlets tired of dour images of talking heads at a podium.
At the AIDS Conference in Durban, South Africa, back in 2000, the protest was electrifying. Activists embraced the theme "Breaking the Silence" with an impressive display of vuvuzelas, whistles, songs and chants. That protest, as much as the conference itself, served as a catalyst for the movement to get cheap antiretroviral drugs to those who were desperately in need in developing countries. (A decade later, there are 5.2 million people on treatment.)
This year, in Vienna, the protest was more subdued but no less memorable. That is because the march, which shared the meeting's theme "Rights Here, Rights Now," culminated in Heldenplatz (Heroes' Square).
The choice was deliberate and the symbolism powerful. Heldenplatz is where Adolf Hitler gave one of his more infamous speeches, announcing the Anschluss - literally "link-up," the euphemism used to describe the forced annexation of Austria, the first step in the expansion of Germany that would eventually trigger the Second World War.
The ornate Parlament, where the Nazi banner was once displayed, was adorned with a giant red ribbon, the symbol of solidarity with those who are HIV-positive.
Where Austrians once stood listening to the hateful words of a tyrant espousing racial purity and world domination, there gathered one of the most diverse crowds imaginable, giving voice to the voiceless.
The delegates' message was delivered on signs, in chants, in song, but principally by their presence. There were people who were HIV-positive and HIV-negative, black and white (and every shade in between), African and European, gay and straight and bi, male and female and transgender, sex workers and scientists, prisoners and politicians, IV drug users and drug company reps, Jews and Gentiles. Diverse but with single message: Human rights are universal.
The juxtaposition of old and new, of history and future challenges, on the Heldenplatz was thought-provoking.
Bullets and bombs once claimed a generation, while today it is a microscopic virus.
Tyranny once came in human form - Adolf Hitler. Today it is more banal - a lack of humanity.
There are an estimated 33.4 million people in the world living with HIV-AIDS and 2.7 million new infections annually, not to mention two million AIDS-related deaths.
HIV-AIDS is a treatable and preventable condition - like most other infectious diseases. Yet, fewer than one-third of those who would benefit from treatment are getting it and prevention programs are not nearly as extensive as they should be.
Despite the lack of vaccine, science has made tremendous gains in the battle against HIV-AIDS. But progress on the ground has been stalled by our lack of dedication to human rights. The persecution of high-risk groups such as homosexual men and intravenous drug users, coupled with a glaring lack of gender equality in much of the world, are fuelling the global epidemic.
Human rights are essential to good health. Treating people better leads to better treatment.
Students of history will know that the Anschluss was a gross violation of the Treaty of Versailles, but the Allies responded with little more than a shrug. Hitler was emboldened and his outrages would escalate into the Holocaust. The tyrant slaughtered six million members of minority groups - principally Jews, but also gays, gypsies and the mentally and physically disabled.
While some may bristle at the analogy, HIV-AIDS is a public health holocaust. The disease has arguably had a greater impact on Africa than slavery. Like all effective tyrants, it targets the vulnerable - in this case Africans, gays, aboriginals, drug users. The silence to their plight is sometimes deafening.
Rich Western countries like Canada have reacted with grand words but small gestures. These days the claim is that the economic crisis has left them unable to do more to stem the pandemic, but it is a matter of priorities.
As Dr. Julio Montaner, former president of the International AIDS Society, said: "When there is a Wall Street emergency or an oil spill, billions upon billions of dollars are quickly mobilized. When there is a need for a rapid response to the global health crisis of HIV-AIDS, people's health deserves a similar response, and yet we cannot find it."
To date, there have been 25 million victims of HIV-AIDS and there are 7,000 new infections daily.
Far too many have been victims of a tyrant called indifference.