You definitely do not attend a Lucian Matis show expecting minimalism and restraint.
In fact, the Romanian Canadian's Thursday afternoon runway presentation may just be his most decadent to date.
FASHION Magazine talks to Lucian Matis
One dress alone featured a dizzying combination of side peplums, kaleidoscopic yellow gold print and a plunging neckline covered with pleated chiffon tied in a huge beaded bow at the shoulder.
Shorter dropped-waist dresses appeared less structured but no less embellished and were paired with cinched black leggings. Think flapper-meets-dominatrix.
For the most part, though, Matis said his collection was less a nod to the late great designer Alexander McQueen than to centuries-old Byzantine culture.
"It's a mix of literature and folkore," the designer explained after the show, noting he delved back to the the 1500s for inspiration. "I looked at icongraphy and architecture and paintngs but worked with light, beautiful fabrics."
This was literally the case with one gown that boasted the print of a fresco across the bodice, giving "period piece" new meaning.
Surprisingly, the collection was by and large a wearable one - so long as you identify with such an ornate sensibility (further emphasized by edgy layers of chains and baubles courtesy of jewellery designer Karen McFarlane). Even a belted wool topcoat featured myriad details, from alternating panels of black and charcoal grey to intricate seams, flaps and folds.
For Matis, balance is crucial, which explains why he often jumps between diaphanous and weighty within a single look. Occasionally, the mix gets the better of him but, even then, he should be applauded for being so gutsy, especially given how safe his peers tend to be.
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