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No matter the variations on a woman's work wardrobe - grey pantsuit, white blouse with pencil skirt, black shift dress - the one constant is a pair of heels. Ascend the corporate ladder and they become even more of a perceived non-negotiable. It's not just the way they complete an outfit, but also the "I mean business" attitude they impart.

Really, though, most workplaces don't enforce heels (and those that do may fall outside the conventional definition of workplace). Which means it's high time to consider a pair of old fashioned oxfords, dandy-ish Derbys or saddle shoes.

The revival of these styles has been building for seasons now; the all-American preppy brand Bass Weejun is being carried in trendy boutiques and Repetto, the famous French dance line, has become as famous for its lace-up jazz shoes (available in fun patent colours) as its leggings and leotards.

Saddle shoes, the iconic white lace-ups with either a black or brown accent across the bridge, did not come more elegant this spring than a pair from Ralph Lauren, while Calvin Klein showed minimalist oxfords sans laces.

To make these masculine-inspired choices feminine, attention must be paid to length of trouser. A cropped hemline is ideal; anything longer and you run the risk of looking like a golfer. Keep the outfit professional by pairing with a structured blazer and blouse or fine-gauge knit. Be advised that full skirts and saddle shoes will immediately conjure up a 1950s pre-teen, which may be a tad too costume-y for the office (even more so if you add a pair of bobby socks).

It's also important to consider shape; the more narrow and elongated the shoe, the more you avoid the gender-bending trap.

Obviously, lace-ups will never replace a perfect black pump or stiletto in terms of conferring power and poise. But for more relaxed days at work, they certainly offer a polished alternative and some relief for aching feet. One step back in time, two steps forward in style.

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