Louis Vuitton sweater, approx. $1,194, watch, $9,050, tote, approx. $1,708. Armani Collezioni polo, $265 at Harry Rosen. Banana Republic shorts, $62. SWIMS shoes, $160 at Uncle Otis.
Not to get too poetic, but trends are like tides: They rise and fall and all too often inspire consumers to cast off with enthusiasm only to end up adrift or, worse, drowning in buyer's remorse.
Nautical-inspired attire, though, remains among the safest looks around, particularly for men who want to ride the fashion wave without taking too many risks. Its status as a perennial favourite means that designers are always looking for ways to refresh the classics, from playing with the iconic navy-and-white nautical stripe to adding more edge to deck shoes.
Vermillion and golden yellow, which dominated Paul Helbers's men's-wear collection for Louis Vuitton, evoke regatta colours and yachting competitions, while every shade of aquatic blue is turning up on windbreakers, polos and shorts alike.
"The colour blue is a no-brainer for men; they love blue," says Jeff Farbstein, executive vice-president and men's merchandising manager at Harry Rosen. "So that whole nautical theme is easy for men to understand; they recognize it easily."
Farbstein notes that it's impossible to walk into a shoe store and not find a boat shoe these days. "All this preppy stuff is back and selling well," he says.
This suggests a sea change in terms of aspirational imaging: Even if you can rent Johnny Depp's 156-foot custom-designed yacht, the Vajoliroja, for $130,000, it's much more tasteful these days to look old-money and understated than stridently nouveau riche.
High-performance enhancements, from waterproof materials to wind-resistant wear, have helped to give the trend new legs this year.
SWIMS, a Norwegian footwear line best known for stylized galoshes, recently introduced a stretchy meshed water loafer for men. Loosely resembling a Tod's moccasin mutated with a Croc, the no-slip amphibious shoe, says company founder Johan Ringdal, will have reach beyond the beach.
"Our loafer is great to use in the water as a wading shoe, but the product is also in many ways a traditional loafer to loaf around in," he says via e-mail. "Based on their construction, these loafers are a classy alternative to sandals, rubber clogs and flip-flops."
For his current collection, Canadian men's wear designer Philip Sparks wanted to encapsulate the outdoorsy summers he spent along Lake Erie as a boy. Think gone-fishing-meets-gallery-hopping.
"I always equate summer to being by the water," he says from his Toronto studio. "I grew up by the water and was always out on my grandfather's boat or on the beach."
Sparks interpreted a striped sweater by ever-so-slightly adjusting the stripes to banana cream and cobalt blue. "I wanted to throw in some strong pops of colour as opposed to dark navy," he explains. "It [feels]a bit more vintage and nostalgic than stark white."
For fall, he goes even more nautical, including navy-issue pea coats and Moby-Dick allusions among his points of reference. "It's all about reshaping and coming up with new concepts for the nautical theme," he says.
Avoiding too literal a look (such as sailor collars - don't even go there) can even help transition the pieces into an office setting on all but the most formal occasions. The biggest considerations are fit and fabric: Navy blazers must still be tailored and pants cannot be too rumpled.
"The weekend is where a lot of it belongs, but a double-breasted navy blazer with white pearl buttons looks amazing [for work]" Farbstein says.
Indeed, that may be the nautical look's greatest appeal: More than many others, it bridges the gap between boardroom and boardwalk, so anchors aweigh.
Getting the look right
- There is a sea of striped tops available this season. Be less obvious by wearing yours under a pullover or windbreaker.
- Don't be afraid to mix your blues, but stick to shades with undertones of red rather than green (turquoise, for instance, veers too far into tropical territory).
- In terms of footwear, try such novelties this season as a high-top boat shoe, a rubber loafer or a desert boot-moccasin hybrid. Save the flip-flops for the beach.
- Acquire the desired yacht-club mien by accessorizing with a distinctive vest, a jaunty pocket square or stylish sunglasses, which can make all the difference between looking like a sophisticated mariner and a cabin boy.
Amy Verner
Photography by Dave Chan for The Globe and Mail; Fashion direction by Amy Verner; Styling by Alon Freeman (Judy Inc.); Grooming by David Goveia for Tresemme (Judy Inc.)