It was a balmy day outside the Dior tent at the Tuileries - even if the economic news was bleak. "It's always been like this, throughout history," said Marisa Berenson, seventies supermodel and granddaughter of design legend Elsa Schiaparelli. "The world needs artistry now more than ever. We're all looking for inspiration."
Of course, designers have always cited artistry as their justification. And it wasn't surprising to hear insiders at the recent Paris Fashion Week claim that it was business as usual, adding that emerging markets, from Beijing to Moscow to Dubai, are there to pick up the slack.
But there also were signs of new thinking. Vivienne Westwood's show was based on the notion of refashioning what you already own. And Vanity Fair fashion director Michael Roberts was calling for restraint. "There are too many options," he said. "This isn't a time for excess. I find all that's out there to be unnecessary at this point. It's time to cull fashion."
Perhaps with survival of the fittest in mind, designers presented surprisingly wearable options for next spring. John Galliano's Dior offering was themed "Tribal Chic," one of the most popular motifs of the week. It was upbeat and ultra-leggy, yet restrained, with little python jackets, short chiffon dresses in optimistic prints and bright shades and gowns with transparent skirts. "At Dior, we really know our clients," the designer gloated.
There was more jungle fare at Alexander McQueen, who staged his spectacle at the former Paris morgue. With Darwin's Origin of Species as inspiration, the backdrop was a glowing image of Earth, with a menagerie of taxidermied animals standing guard. There were tropical prints fashioned into beautifully constructed coats, suits and dresses. Floral embroideries on transparent mesh gave the illusion of painted bodies, providing a delicate balance to leather corset belts. Sparkling cat suits came on strong, and crystal-covered dresses dazzled, while a graphic black, white and grey fossil print was classic McQueen.
The African beat went on at Louis Vuitton, though it was more of an homage to Josephine Baker. With a new man in his life, designer Marc Jacobs is seeing "la vie en rose," and sent out a joyful cabaret of Paris chic to the strains of Edith Piaf, with colourful ostrich feather miniskirts, little tailored jackets and polka dot silk pyjama pants. Statement-making sandals were paired with metallic clutches and sacs with leopard trim. All will undoubtedly make cash registers sing. "It must be love," I told Jacobs. "It is," he glowed.
Stella McCartney walked the line between romance and power, going back to her Savile Row training with sharp, oversized tailoring in trenches and boyfriend jackets, many in soft flesh tones. There were black-and-white palm prints and light cashmere knits played up the sensuality. Nearly transparent footwear with chunky, Lucite heels completed the looks. The pride was evident in her dad Paul's eye as he watched the finale, to the tune of Maybe I'm Amazed. "I really get so emotional, I'm barely holding it together," the former Beatle confessed.
Wearability was also front and centre at Jean Paul Gaultier. Two of Canada's most dramatic models, Coco Rocha and Yasmin Warsame, strutted the runway in jersey leotards - Coco's with a floating train, Yasmin's with a cape. There were lovely beige knits, slip dresses and soft silk and lace robes reminiscent of men's dressing gowns. "Great clothes for just hanging around the house in sexy style!" observed Milla Jovovich. Burlesque queen Dita Von Teese concurred.
Gaultier took his Hermès clients to Santa Fe, down a sand-covered runway complete with cacti, and a couple of "mature" models: the curvaceous Stephanie Seymour in a fringed suede wrap skirt and cowboy hat and Naomi Campbell, clad in a suede wrap dress over a suede bikini. The were followed by girls in slouchy, flat boots and gaucho hats. Belted jersey dresses and short caftans made for easy dressing. Gaultier has a keen understanding of what Hermès jet setters want: Cool, relaxed clothes of superior quality that never make them look like they're trying too hard.
Karl Lagerfeld's collection suggested the comfort of home. His Chanel show was a celebration of greatest hits, and the clients lapped it up. "I could see myself in all of it!" effused Toronto's Suzanne Rogers. There were purses modelled after Chanel shopping bags, tweed suits, ruffles and bows. Surprises like feather pompoms on the heels of Lucite shoes and a quilted guitar case pumped up the fun, while gypsy skirts and cascading camellias added to the romance. "We have so many different clients all over the world. So there really is something for everyone, eh?" Lagerfeld said.
Lanvin's Alber Elbaz is always experimenting. Happily, the experiments are mostly successful. The label's trademark unfinished edges and exposed zippers are beautifully offset by brilliant draping and arresting silhouettes, and for spring, a vibrant palette.
Nicholas Ghesquière went space-age for Balenciaga. "He's created a new race of women!" gushed Selma Hayek. Lighting design caused colours to change before our eyes. Super-short dresses showed off impossibly long legs in nude tights that covered shoes, making for invisible footwear. Transparent nude silk skinny pants and tunic tops were embroidered with ribbons, and flashy metallic leather jackets featured accordion pleats.
One of the most artful visions of the week came from Giambattista Valli, who is winning the hearts of well-heeled clients. "His garments are like perfect cupcakes!" gushed Toronto fashionista Stacey Kimmel. The collection, themed "Metamorphosis"(which will be presented at a Royal Ontario Museum benefit in Toronto on Nov. 13) offered a mélange of takes on the female form, from elegant vamp cocktail dresses to mega-structured skirts layered with crinolines.
Perhaps Vivienne Westwood had the freshest take on fashion for challenging times. "Do it yourself!" she proclaimed, with a show based on reinventing old pieces. Her "environmentally conscious" collection featured fabrics simply wrapped around the body, emblazoned with reminders to save the rain forest.
I asked if the notion of refashioning clothing might be bad for business. Her response was vintage provocateuse: "Well, there'll always be people who want my things, I think. But I'm rich enough that even if I had to close all my shops, I'd still be all right for a while."
2009 trends
Jungle
Gypsy
Sculptural
Sci-fi
Relaxed chic
Lucite shoes
Whimsical shoes
Colourful prints
3-D flowers
Glitter/crystals
Metallics
Skinny pants
Jumpsuits
Techno fabrics
Transparency
Jeanne Beker is host of Fashion Television and editor-in-chief of FQ.